Louis Erard continues its odyssey into the métiers d’art with Grand Feu enamel and a new interpretation of this exclusive craft previously explored. This contemporary classic returns with subtlety and touches of red and, for the first time, in a 39 mm case.
The dial of the Excellence Émail Grand Feu II has three colours: white for the background, Louis Erard blue indexes, and flashes of red on the XII at 12 o‘clock and on some of the lines of the small seconds at six o’clock. For every kiln process – at more than 800°C – there are hours of preparation, not to mention the risk of something not going to plan. The artisan’s dexterity changes nothing, you cannot play with fire with impunity and, despite an expert touch, the high level of waste is irreducible.
Deposited in small layers of silica, oxides and potassium, the colours are fixed forever, permanently bonded to their metal base. It is an almost alchemical art that goldsmiths were practising 1,500 years ago, when this was the only way to dye metal until the invention of synthetic lacquers, and which traditional watchmaking has kept alive through the centuries.
These days, Grand Feu enamel is generally reserved for luxury watches. It is precisely for this reason that Louis Erard has opened up its range of expression, continuing its journey to the heart of ancestral watchmaking expertise under the artistic and strategic direction of Manuel Emch.
The dials, patiently made piece-by-piece, once again come from the Donzé Cadrans kilns, an art enameller based in Le Locle. Louis Erard celebrates the marriage of traditional fine watchmaking techniques and the spirit of the 21st century, the union of luxury craft and affordable watchmaking.
The signature ‘fir tree’ hands in blued steel give the dial a harmonious finish. The strap completes the work in red grained calf leather with blue stitching, lined in Louis Erard blue grained calf leather.
This edition is limited to 99 pieces. The message from Louis Erard is unchanging: make the exceptional accessible, and the price reflects this at CHF 3,900.
Technical Specifications:
Excellence Émail Grand Feu II 39mm ref. 34238AA54
Limited edition of 99 pieces
Recommended retail price: CHF 3,900
Movement: Automatic, Sellita SW261-1 calibre, 3 hands with small seconds at 6 o’clock, 11½’’’, Ø25.60 mm, height: 5.60 mm, 31 jewels, 28,800 VpH (4Hz), élaboré grade movement, meticulously decorated, special openworked oscillating weight with black lacquered Louis Erard symbol, approx. 38 hours of power reserve
Functions: HMS
Central hour and minute hands, second hand at 6 o’clock
Case: Polished stainless steel, Ø39 mm, lug width: 20 mm, lug to lug: 46.48 mm, thickness: 12.25 mm, 3 pieces, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides, movement visible through the transparent caseback, water resistant up to a pressure of 5 bars (50m/165ft), signature fir tree crown, caseback engraved with “Limited Edition 1 of 99”
Dial: White Grand Feu enamel, made in the traditional way by Donzé Cadrans S.A., counter at 6 o’clock, blue and red enamelled transfers
Hands: Signature fir tree hands in blued steel
Strap: Red grained calf leather with blue stitching, blue grained calf leather lining, polished stainless steel pin buckle, functional catch spring bars enabling the strap to be changed quickly
Dimensions: 20/18mm width, 80/115mm length
For more information please visit Louis Erard